Suspension vs Foam Helmet
• Suspension usually preferred for caving
• Ultimately a personal preference
• Suspension: More durable, heavy, and traditional
• Foam: Less durable, lighter, and common

Helmet Ratings
• A helmet with a EN 12492 rating preferred
• EN 12492: Rated for rock impacts and falls
• EN 397: Rated for impact and penetration resistance (not for rock impacts or falls)
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Knee and Elbow Pads
• Ultimately a personal preference
• Cavers often have issues with velcro straps failing when muddy, and trouble staying in place
• Better to buy cheaper options that can be regularly replaced

3 Flashlight Setup
• 2 headlamps and 1 emergency backup
• Carry extra batteries for all flashlights
• Headlamps should be waterproof (rated IPX7, IPX8, or IPX9)

Flood vs Floody Headlamp
• Flood: Wide beam for illuminating larger areas.
• Floody: A flood with a soft beam for close-up tasks, minimizing shadows and hotspots in tight cave spaces.
• Experienced cavers usually use floodys most of the time

Food Options
• Choose calorie-dense, protein-rich, and carbohydrate-heavy foods that require minimal preparation.
• Good options include peanut butter, tortillas, tuna and chicken packets, nuts, protein powder, crackers, cheese, trail mix, oatmeal, dehydrated pasta, sandwiches, ramen, protein bars, dried fruit, hot cocoa, instant mashed potatoes, and Snickers.

Titanium vs. Stainless Steel vs. Aluminum
• Titanium: Lightest and strongest option, but poor heat transfer.
• Stainless Steel: Heavy yet strong, excellent heat transfer.
• Aluminum: Lightweight but less strong, moderate heat transfer.

Carry Extra Food
• Bring extra food in case of emergencies

Leather Gloves
• Required for rappelling and rope-work
• Best for dry caves
• Leather will become very cold and uncomfortable when wet

Nitrile Coated Work Gloves
• Very cheap, lightweight, and waterproof
• Preferred by experienced cavers
• Best for wet caves due to high functionality in water and mud
• Easy to carry an extra pair

Hiking Boots
• Best in dry caves
• High-cut preferred to avoid rolled ankles and scratches

Rubber Boots (Wellies)
• Most common and practical caving boot
• Best for muddy caves and walking through low water (high need waders/suits)

Socks
• Don't wear cotton socks (they absorb moisture and are cold when wet)
• Wool and synthetic material is best
• Neoprene socks are waterproof (best when combined with a wool interior liner)

Preferred Materials
• Non-cotton, quick-drying material is best
• Quick-dry material is stretchy and not as durable so will need to be replaced quicker

Jeans
• Great for completely DRY caves because they are durable and tough
• When wet are extremely heavy, cold, will not dry, and will cause chaffing

Wool
• The warmest material that retains heat even when wet
• Can be expensive
• Marino wool is preferred

Cotton
• Best for completely DRY caves due to durability
• When wet is cold and doesn't dry fast
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Prepare for Bags to be Destoroyed
• No such thing as a life-long caving backpack
• Gear will tear, rip, and fail over time
• Many cavers purchase budget backpacks that are regularly replaced

Drybag Inside Regular Backpack Method
• Use a regular backpack with multiple small dry bags inside
• Diversify leak risk: A single leak in the one bag can destroy all gear

Extra Protect Essential Gear
‍• Put flashlights and batteries in a separate ZipLoc bag

Ascending and Descending
• Most vertical caving gear is only to descend into a cave and ascend out
• If you need to rock climb you'll need anchoring gear (uncommon)
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There's More Than One Way to Skin a Cat
• There are several different methods for ascending and descending a cave
• Groups have different preferences based on the cave, weather, and personal preference

Learn From An Experienced Caver
• Don't attempt to learn by yourself
• Learn from an experienced caver how to utilize gear